Time for a little broccoli backlash?

Writer Tina Jordan has reviewed a new cookbook for people like me.

“Call it broccoli backlash,” she said. ” After a decade of broiled scrod and brussels sprouts, some of us are tired of cutting the fat and flavor from our food. At the very least we want to go back to fettucine Alfredo, rice pudding, meatloaf, and liberally buttered mashed potatoes.”

Fortunately, “The Bad for You Cookbook’ ($10), by Chris Maynard and Bill Scheller, the guys who wrote “Guide to Cooking on Your Car Engine”(1989) is available for folks sick and tired of the light eating trend. Touted as ”a classic of good taste and bad nutrition,” every one of “Bad for You’s” recipes checks in at over 1,000 calories.

The book’s cardinal rule is ”If it can be poached, it can be fried.” The authors, both amateur cooks-embarked on a mission to save some classic recipes (”many of which have the mean density of plutonium”) for posterity: cream biscuits, macaroni pie, killer eggnog, consomme with suet balls, pork cake. Pork cake? ”Yes,” Scheller explains, ”it’s a dense, dark cake, with a gingerbready flavor, and the shortening is finely ground salt pork.”

It may be hard to believe, but both authors are quite trim. Scheller-who suffers from neither high blood pressure nor soaring cholesterol-preaches moderation when it comes to diet. ”I follow the four food groups,” he says. ”I don’t make the more outrageous recipes in the book more than a few times a month. But I’m not afraid to eat them, either. I don’t live in mortal fear of fat and salt. I don’t look at a glass of heavy cream and think it’s going to kill me.”

They subscribe to the theory that “there’s nothing wrong with the occasional large meal, washed down with copious amounts of alcohol and topped off with a sugary dessert.”